Lissome – A Culinary Love Letter to Italy on Kingsland Road

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Jimi Hajri may not sound like an Italian name, but don’t judge a book by its cover. Or in this case, don’t judge the cuisine by the cook’s name. Since 1995, Jimi has been working in foodservice, and all of it has been Italian. Lissome is proof of his love for Italian cuisine and his expertise in creating it.

Ambiance and Atmosphere

  • Lissome offers a gentle elegance with velvet banquettes, warm lighting, and Italinate jazz, creating a romantic and cozy dining experience.

Cocktails and Starters

  • The Truffle Sour cocktail and generous Adriana Burrata set the stage for a memorable meal, showcasing Jimi Hajri’s expertise in Italian cuisine.

Main Courses and Pizza

  • From pumpkin raviolo to woodfired pizza, each dish at Lissome highlights artisanal craftsmanship and fresh ingredients, impressing even the most discerning palates.

Desserts and Final Impressions

  • Despite a minor tiramisu hiccup, Lissome’s high standards and Jimi’s dedication to perfection ensure a delightful dining experience worth revisiting.

We visited Lissome on Kingsland Road on a Wednesday night. The environment exudes a gentle elegance, with velvet-covered banquettes featuring genuinely comfortable cushions, and warm lighting that’s bright enough to read the menu without squinting, yet low enough to bring a touch of romance to the experience. The music added to the effect, with Italinate jazz, soft crooning, and contemporary and nostalgic melodies warming us on a cold night.

We started with the Truffle Sour cocktail. If you love truffles, having a sliver of it right under your nose as you sip the mellow complexity of this drink will thrill you. There’s a weird genius happening in the mix of Amaro Montenegro, truffle, and citrus. It’s a sign of good things to come.

For starters, we had the Adriana Burrata. The serving sizes of the starters at Lissome are quite generous. If you want room to really enjoy your main course, share one, or leave some on the plate. This is easier said than done considering the perfect creaminess of the burrata and the incredible flavor of the beefsteak tomatoes. I’m working on a scheme to get hold of some of those tomatoes from his supplier. Great Italian cooking is, for me, about starting with great produce, and finding flavorful tomatoes in December in London is an early Christmas miracle.

We also had the Spicy Butterfly Prawns. The sauce, a rich tomato and wine gravy with layers of heat from different kinds of chili, was divine. The homemade bread that came with it provided more proof of Jimi and his team’s high standards. I would have asked for more bread to make the most of every last drop of the sauce, but we were already feeling the need to ensure we had room for what was to come.

The raviolo of the day was pumpkin. Generously filled parcels lightly scented with nutmeg, in a lemony sauce that was the perfect balance to the pumpkin. Sometimes a sauce that looks that rich and buttery can drown out the pasta, but this was light and fresh, leaving us feeling satisfied without being overwhelmed by butter. The Lissome pizza is a great showcase for their pizza skills. They make their own dough, and you can really taste it. The toppings are ample and flavorful, framed nicely by the freshness of the woodfired crust. When it comes to Italian food, my partner is pretty picky. He’s traveled all over Italy as a touring musician, enjoying home cooking and the best the locals have to offer everywhere from Trieste to Bari. The smile on his face as he tasted each successive dish reassured me that my assessment was correct. We had hit the jackpot.

The final test of the kitchen’s abilities was one specially cooked Arancini. And it was perfect. Crispy on the outside, fluffy with just a touch of cheesy comfort on the inside, subtle and light as can be.

For dessert, we had Tiramisu and Chocolate Melt. The tiramisu was so weak on coffee that we couldn’t taste it at all, and to his credit, Jimi gave it a good sniff and acknowledged the mistake. In the process, we learned a lot about the process of making tiramisu. I would say I’ll try it myself at home, but to be honest, next time I want one, I’ll just head over to Lissome. Though ours wasn’t perfect this time, I have complete trust that Jimi will make it right next time. In fact, when we arrived, he was having his dinner and testing the food, giving feedback and making adjustments with his kitchen. This is a restaurant that serves to high standards while making you feel at ease as you enjoy the gifts of their cooking.

Of all the places I’ve reviewed this year, Lissome is one I’ll definitely be returning to for dinner.

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